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Your puppy's first 30 days: training and routine

A week-by-week plan for your puppy's first month at home: settling in, routine, toilet training, socialisation, first training, time alone and the vet.

8 min read

The first month with a puppy is tiring, joyful and important. Many puppies come home at around eight weeks old, right in the middle of the period when they learn most easily about the world. What your puppy experiences now, good or bad, will influence how it copes with people, other dogs, noises and new places for the rest of its life. This guide gives you a simple plan for the first 30 days.

Why the first months matter so much

Puppies go through a sensitive period for socialisation early in life. The PDSA, a veterinary charity, places it between about 4 and 12 weeks of age, and the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior describes the first three months as the most important time for socialisation, because during this period a puppy’s sociability outweighs its fear.

Dogs that miss out on good experiences at this age are more likely to become anxious, fearful or reactive as adults. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior notes that behaviour problems are the main reason dogs are given up to shelters. Good socialisation is one of the most effective ways to prevent them, and it starts in your first weeks together.

Week 1: settle in and build a routine

Keep things calm. A new home is overwhelming. Limit your puppy to one or two rooms at first, keep visitors to a minimum for a few days, and let it explore at its own pace.

Start a routine straight away. Puppies feel safer when their day is predictable. Keep meals, toilet breaks, play, naps and bedtime at roughly the same times every day, and feed the same food the breeder or shelter used.

Let your puppy sleep. Young puppies sleep a lot, often most of the day. Give it quiet time in its bed and teach children not to disturb it there.

The first nights. Your puppy has just left its mother and littermates. Many owners keep the puppy’s bed in or near their bedroom for the first nights. It is fine to comfort a puppy that cries: ignoring it can make it feel more isolated and frightened. A blanket that smells of its mother can help, and you will probably need a toilet break during the night at first.

Visit the vet. Book a check-up in the first week, and ask about the vaccination schedule, parasite prevention and when your puppy can safely go to public places.

Toilet training from day one

Toilet training is about routine and rewards:

  • Take your puppy out first thing in the morning, last thing at night, and every two to three hours during the day.
  • Take it out after every meal, after naps and during or after play.
  • Watch for signs such as sniffing the floor or circling, and take your puppy out straight away.
  • Go to the same spot, stay with your puppy, and use the same word each time.
  • When it goes in the right place, praise it and give a small, tasty reward at once.
  • Never punish an accident. It only means the puppy did not have enough chances to go out. Clean thoroughly and take it out more often.

Every puppy learns at its own pace. Some pick it up within days, others take much longer, and accidents are normal in the first weeks.

Weeks 1 to 4: socialisation, safely

Socialisation means helping your puppy discover the world in a positive way: people of different ages and appearances, friendly vaccinated dogs, everyday sounds, surfaces, places, car journeys and being handled.

Until your vet says your puppy is protected by its vaccinations, keep it away from places used by unvaccinated dogs and from water sources such as ponds and puddles. You do not need to wait to start socialising, though: the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior considers early socialisation, before vaccinations are complete, to be the standard of care, as long as it is done safely. You can:

  • Invite calm friends of different ages to meet your puppy at home.
  • Let it meet healthy, fully vaccinated adult dogs that you know are friendly.
  • Carry it to see busy streets, shops and traffic from a safe distance.
  • Get it used to car journeys, being brushed, having its paws, ears and mouth gently checked, and the sounds of the household.
  • Play recordings of noises it may not hear yet, such as fireworks or thunder, very quietly at first.

Follow a few rules so the experiences stay positive:

  • Go at your puppy’s pace. Start with quiet, easy situations and build up gradually.
  • Keep it short and pleasant. Use treats, toys and praise, and do not pack too many new things into one day.
  • Watch for signs of fear. If your puppy hides, trembles or tries to escape, calmly move away to where it feels safe, and try again later from further away.
  • Supervise play with other dogs and stop it if it becomes too rough for either dog.

Puppy classes run by qualified trainers using reward-based methods are an excellent way to socialise in a controlled setting. According to the AVSAB, puppies can often start as early as 7 to 8 weeks of age, provided they have had at least one set of vaccinations at least 7 days before the first class and a first deworming. Ask your vet about classes near you.

Weeks 2 to 4: first training

Training starts the day your puppy arrives, and it should be fun. Use reward-based methods only: praise, play and treats for the behaviour you want, and calmly ignoring or redirecting what you do not want. Keep sessions to a few minutes, several times a day.

Good first skills are:

  • Name and attention: say your puppy’s name and reward it for looking at you.
  • Recall: call your puppy to you in the house and reward it generously every time it comes.
  • Sit and settle: teach it to sit, and to lie calmly on its bed.
  • Handling: gentle, rewarded handling of paws, ears and mouth makes grooming and vet visits easier for life.
  • Wearing a collar and harness: let your puppy wear them at home for short periods before its first walks.

Puppies bite and mouth during play. Redirect the biting onto a toy, and pause the game if it gets too rough.

Learning to be alone

A puppy that learns early that being alone is safe is much less likely to develop separation problems later. Start in the first week, while you are at home:

  1. Leave your puppy for just a few minutes, for example while you make a drink in another room, with a chew or food puzzle.
  2. Return calmly and reward it if it stayed relaxed.
  3. Build up the time very gradually, going back a step if your puppy becomes worried.
  4. Keep your departures and returns low-key.

Do not leave a young puppy alone for long periods. Welfare charities advise no more than about four hours for adult dogs, and much less for puppies, which also need frequent toilet breaks.

Exercise: less than you think

Puppies need play and exploration, but not long walks: too much high-impact exercise while the bones are still growing risks damage to the joints. You may hear of a rule of “five minutes of exercise per month of age”, but the PDSA points out that there is no scientific evidence behind it and that it is not appropriate for most puppies. Instead, keep play, short walks and training sessions short, let your puppy rest whenever it is tired, and avoid running, long walks and repeated jumping until it is fully grown. Games, training and food puzzles keep a puppy busy without long outings, and your vet can tell you what suits your puppy’s breed.

A sample day for a young puppy

  • Early morning: toilet break, breakfast, toilet break, short play.
  • Morning: nap, toilet break, a few minutes of training, a socialisation outing.
  • Midday: lunch, toilet break, nap, short practice at being alone.
  • Afternoon: play, toilet breaks every two to three hours, nap.
  • Evening: dinner, toilet break, calm time together, short training session.
  • Bedtime: last toilet break, then bed in a quiet place.

By the end of the first month

By day 30, most puppies have settled into their new home, know their routine, have begun toilet training and simple cues, and have met a good range of people, places and friendly dogs. Socialisation and training do not stop here: keep offering positive new experiences throughout the first year and beyond.

If you are still preparing for your puppy’s arrival, read what to buy before your puppy comes home. For family homes, our guide to dogs and children explains how to keep everyone safe. And if you are still choosing a breed, our easiest breeds to train list and Find my breed quiz are good places to start.

Sources

Studies, veterinary and welfare organisations and breed standards this guide is based on.

  1. Puppy socialisation — PDSA (veterinary charity)
  2. AVSAB position statement on puppy socialization — American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB), hosted by The Ohio State University
  3. First day and night with your puppy — PDSA (veterinary charity)
  4. Toilet training your puppy — PDSA (veterinary charity)
  5. Exercising your puppy — PDSA (veterinary charity)
  6. How to train your dog to stay home alone — RSPCA
  7. New puppy checklist — PDSA (veterinary charity)

Breeds mentioned in this guide

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