Dog food basics: how to read a label and how much to feed

Dog food packaging is designed to sell. Pictures of fresh meat, words like “premium” and long lists of appealing ingredients catch the eye, while the information that actually matters is often in small print on the back. This guide shows you which parts of a label to read first, how to decide how much to feed, and how to keep your dog at a healthy weight. It uses the guidance of the World Small Animal Veterinary Association (WSAVA), the body that sets international nutrition guidelines for vets, together with veterinary charity advice.

Start with one word: “complete”

The most important statement on a dog food label tells you whether the food can be fed on its own. The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), whose model rules most US states follow, calls it “perhaps the most important part of a label”, and it is usually printed in small type on the back or side.

• “Complete” means the food contains all the nutrients a dog needs, in the right amounts, and can be its sole diet. Veterinary charities advise that a balanced diet starts with a food labelled complete.
• “Complementary”, or “for intermittent or supplementary feeding”, means the food does not provide everything. According to the WSAVA, foods labelled this way should only be a small part of the diet, 10% or less, unless your vet is using them as a therapeutic diet.
• The life stage. Nutrient needs differ between growth, adult maintenance and reproduction, so the statement also names the life stage. The WSAVA points out that foods labelled “for all life stages” are formulated for growth and reproduction.

In the European Union, the label must specify the species, the life stage and whether the food is complete or complementary. In the United States, the statement follows a standard wording: either the food “is formulated to meet” the AAFCO nutrient profiles, or “animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate” that it is complete and balanced. Both AAFCO and the European pet food federation, FEDIAF, publish recommended nutrient levels that manufacturers formulate to.

The ingredient list: useful, but limited

Ingredients are listed in descending order of weight, so the first ingredient is the heaviest in the recipe. That sounds informative, but the WSAVA warns that the ingredient list “gives no information on the quality of the ingredients” and can be very misleading about the overall quality of a food. A few points help you read it:

• Weights include water. Ingredients are weighed as they go into the recipe, in their fresh state, so a wet ingredient such as fresh meat counts at its full weight, water included.
• Categories are allowed in Europe. EU labels may list ingredients by category, such as “meat and animal derivatives (4% chicken)”, rather than one by one.
• Product names follow rules in the United States. A food called “beef dog food” must be at least 95% beef, not counting added water; a “beef dinner”, “entrée” or “platter” at least 25%; a food “with beef” at least 3%; and “beef flavour” only needs a detectable flavour.
• Marketing terms are not regulated. The WSAVA notes that words such as “holistic” or “premium” are of little practical value in judging a food.

The analysis and the calories

The analytical constituents (the “guaranteed analysis” in the United States) give the percentages of crude protein, fat, fibre and, in Europe, ash, as fed. Moisture must be declared in the EU only when it is above 14%; in the United States the figures are given as minimums or maximums. None of this is a full nutrient profile.

Calorie content is the figure that matters most for portion sizes, yet the WSAVA notes that it is only required on labels in the United States, where it is given per kilogram and per cup or can. Elsewhere it is often missing; you can ask the manufacturer, whose contact details must be on the pack.

Look behind the label

The WSAVA suggests asking pet food companies a few questions before trusting a brand:

• Do they employ a qualified nutritionist, with a PhD in animal nutrition or board certification in veterinary nutrition?
• Who formulates the diets, and how?
• What quality control do they carry out on ingredients and finished products?
• Have they carried out nutrition research, published in peer-reviewed journals?
• Can they give you the full nutrient analysis and the calorie content?

The WSAVA advises caution with any brand that cannot or will not provide this information.

How much to feed

The feeding guide on the pack is a starting point, not a rule. AAFCO itself describes feeding directions as guidelines that may need modification, because dogs differ in activity, genetics and environment. The PDSA, a veterinary charity, advises:

• Weigh your dog’s portion every day rather than guessing with a scoop.
• If your dog needs to lose or gain weight, feed for its target weight, which may not be its current weight.
• Make sure nobody in the household, or the neighbours, is giving extra food.
• Avoid leaving food out all day for most dogs, as it can lead to overeating.

For a rough idea of daily needs, the WSAVA publishes calorie ranges for an average healthy adult dog in ideal body condition, based on standard energy formulas. For example:

Body weight	Daily calories (approximate range)
5 kg	280–351 kcal
10 kg	470–590 kcal
20 kg	790–993 kcal
30 kg	1,080–1,346 kcal
40 kg	1,340–1,670 kcal

The lower figure suits an inactive adult and the higher an active one. The WSAVA stresses that these are guidance only: individual dogs may need more or less to stay at an ideal, trim body condition.

Check your dog’s shape, not just the scales

Veterinary professionals estimate that nearly half of dogs in the UK are overweight, according to the PDSA, and being overweight is linked to several health problems and a shorter life. Vets use a nine-point body condition score, and the PDSA describes a simple check you can do at home:

• Ribs: run your hands along the sides; you should feel the ribs with a light touch, without seeing them.
• Spine and hips: you should be able to feel them under the skin, without them sticking out.
• Waist: looking from the side and from above, you should see a waist.
• Tummy: it should tuck up, not bulge out.
• Base of the tail: there should be no build-up of fat.

Some breeds appear more prone to weight gain, including Labradors, Golden Retrievers, Pugs, Cocker Spaniels and Cavalier King Charles Spaniels. Neutering does not cause weight gain on its own, but the PDSA explains that it can increase appetite and slow the metabolism, so neutered dogs usually need fewer calories. If your dog is overweight, ask your vet about a weight-loss plan rather than simply cutting food.

Life stages

• Puppies need a complete food suited to their expected adult size. Keep to the breeder’s or shelter’s food at first, and weigh your puppy regularly as it grows.
• Adults can move to an adult food once fully grown. Foods exist for neutered, very active or overweight dogs.
• Seniors. The PDSA suggests a senior food from about half the expected lifespan: around seven years for small dogs and five for larger ones. Changes in how much an older dog eats or drinks can be a sign of illness and are worth a vet visit.

Changing food without upsetting the stomach

Sudden changes can cause stomach upsets or refusal to eat. The PDSA recommends a change over about two weeks:

1. Days 1–3: offer a teaspoon of the new food in a separate bowl alongside the usual meal.
2. Days 4–10: mix a little new food into the old, gradually increasing the new and reducing the old.
3. Days 10–14: once your dog has eaten the mix happily for at least a week, phase out the old food.

Treats, chews and dangerous foods

Treats help with training and bonding, but the WSAVA advises that they should always make up less than 10% of a dog’s daily calories, and should never replace a meal. Reduce meals when you give treats, and remember that play, walks and attention are rewards too.

Some foods are dangerous to dogs. Veterinary sources list:

• chocolate
• grapes, raisins, currants and sultanas, which can cause kidney failure
• onions, garlic, leeks, shallots and chives
• xylitol, a sweetener found in some sugar-free products
• macadamia nuts
• alcohol and raw yeast dough
• caffeine, including coffee, tea and energy drinks
• mouldy food waste

The WSAVA also warns that cooked and raw bones can cause serious damage if chewed or swallowed, and advises avoiding very hard chews such as antlers and hooves. Always supervise your dog with chews.

Raw, homemade and vegetarian diets

• Raw diets. The WSAVA states that there is no evidence that raw meat-based diets provide health benefits over commercial or balanced homemade cooked diets, and that raw meat can carry bacteria such as Salmonella and E. coli that can infect both pets and people. Freezing or freeze-drying does not kill all bacteria.
• Homemade diets. The PDSA notes that homemade dog food is extremely difficult to get right, and the WSAVA warns that home-prepared diets may have important nutrient deficiencies and excesses, which are especially harmful to puppies.
• Vegetarian diets. Dogs are omnivores, and the PDSA says a commercial vegetarian or vegan food can be possible if it is complete and suitable for the life stage, after talking to your vet.

If you are considering any of these, discuss it with your vet first.

Your food checklist

• The label says “complete” and names your dog’s life stage.
• You know the calorie content, from the label or the manufacturer.
• You weigh daily portions and adjust them to your dog’s body condition.
• Treats are counted and stay under 10% of daily calories.
• Dangerous foods are out of reach of the dog, and of children who might share them.
• Any change of food is made gradually.

Feeding is one of the biggest regular costs of owning a dog; our guide to the real costs of owning a dog explains how to budget for it. If you are about to bring a puppy home, see what to buy before your puppy comes home. Breed profiles such as the Labrador Retriever and the Beagle explain why weight control matters so much for some breeds.